Craft beer is in trouble. Here's why it shouldn't be.

By Owen Ogletree   Oh, how times change. When I began promoting craft beer in the southeast USA in the late 1980s, few people seemed to understand my fascination with the historic beverage. It was even a struggle to persuade some people to appreciate the hops in a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or the malts in a Pete's Wicked Ale. Light, flavorless industrial lagers and "alco-pops" dominated the sales charts. It was a depressing time.    A proverbial light at the end of the tunnel seemed to peek through the darkness in the late 1990s when a small craft beer bubble began forming. Suddenly, people were intrigued by pale ales, Belgian beers, pilsners and stouts. Homebrewing became a popular pastime, and even Sam Adams offered a Scotch Ale, Doppelbock, Cream Stout and UK-inspired Boston Ale.    Several years after the brief craft beer bubble of the 1990s, I was shocked and amazed when a much more massive wave of interest in craft beer seemed to emerge. Suddenly, everyone drank hoppy, bitter IPAs, Belgian-inspired ales, roasty imperial stouts and complex wood-aged acidic fruit beers. Brewers even competed on how many hoppy IBUs could be achieved in an IPA. Life seemed great, and I thought there would be no going back.    Then came low IBU hazy/juicy "IPAs," cloying pastry stouts, an obsession with lactose, and a vast number of one-dimensional kettle-soured ales. Some struggling brewers resorted to chasing trends instead of creating their own. The COVID pandemic did not help the situation. Breweries found themselves underfunded and short-staffed, and pressure was on just to stay in business. Prices of brewing ingredients skyrocketed.    A couple of years ago brought a surprise sucker punch that was totally unexpected by brewers. Some drinkers began to burn out on hazy/juicy IPAs and simple kettle-soured ales. Many young people grew up with zero interest in beer or other alcoholic beverages. Cannabis, seltzers and non-alcoholic beverages became a focus. The massive craft beer bubble burst with a resounding bang, taking many craft breweries down with it. This "market correction" continues to this day, and it's once again a depressing era for craft beer lovers.      We can't afford to lose craft breweries, taprooms and pubs. These establishments tie communities together and provide welcoming gathering places. Craft beer forms a social lubricant to get people talking, ease loneliness and find common ground.    Craft beer even holds the power to revitalize neighborhoods. For example, the center of Decatur, Georgia, was a somewhat desolate place decades ago before the beloved Brick Store Pub moved into an empty building. Soon, every storefront near the bustling pub housed a thriving business. The same happened in Denver's semi-deserted LoDo district when Wynkoop Brewing moved into an old warehouse and transformed the area into a thriving entertainment destination. These transformations not only brought life to these areas but also created jobs and boosted local economies.    Beer travel forms a marvelous adventure for many imbibers. I've traveled all over the USA, Europe and beyond, seeking impressive beers and places to enjoy them. My love of craft beer sparked my passion for travel and helped me make wonderful friends around the world.     Of course, folks who are allergic to beer ingredients or have problems with alcohol should definitely avoid drinking. However, moderate beer consumption can be a life-enriching, healthful experience for the rest of adults. Young people choosing to avoid beer because of health concerns should think again. It's important to remember that moderation is key, and responsible drinking can be a part of a healthy lifestyle.        Breweries can't say this legally, but I can. Craft beer can be good for you. Here are just a few talking points:   Beer contains all 13 essential minerals and a range of B vitamins required for human metabolic function. The mineral composition of beer matches that of wine, but beer also contains valuable levels of selenium and silicon to protect against cancer, heart disease and bone issues.  Craft beers contain hops and polyphenols that aid in lowering cholesterol; darker beers typically contain the highest levels of beneficial polyphenols. Malt and hops are natural, healthy agricultural ingredients, and residual yeast cells in bottle-conditioned beers provide a good dose of valuable B vitamins.   Average-strength beers typically hold fewer calories per unit than wine and contain healthy proteins and carbohydrates. Beers like Guinness and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale are both remarkably low in calories and carbs yet high in antioxidants.   Being afraid of developing a "beer belly," many young people avoid the beverage in favor of watery hard seltzers and sugary cocktails. Several studies indicate that the concept of a beer belly is a myth. It's probably not moderate consumption of beer that increases body fat, but the questionable, high-calorie food items often served alongside beer.   Regular gravity beers have higher water content than wine and less concentrated fermentation toxins than distilled spirits. Many session IPAs and low-gravity pilsners offer almost as much flavor and enjoyment as high-gravity beers - without the dreaded hangover or massive caloric intake. Beer doesn't have to be extremely boozy to be delicious and enjoyable.   "Moderate intake of any alcoholic beverage (defined as one 12-ounce alcoholic beverage for women daily, two for men) has been shown to increase HDL (good) cholesterol, lower LDL (bad) cholesterol and reduce the risk of blood clotting. Moderate drinking is also linked with a lowered incidence of gallstones, decreased risk of type two diabetes and improved cognitive function in older adults. Beer has been associated with lowering the risk of kidney stones in men, possibly due to beer’s high water content and diuretic effect. In addition, substances in hops may also slow the release of calcium from bone, which is implicated in kidney stones [and osteoporosis]." Source: American Dietetic Association Some people may be abandoning craft beer because they suffer from hazy/juicy IPA burnout. Brewers should respond by offering a variety of classic craft beer styles and educating customers on the beauty of these styles. The current Beer Judge Certification Guidelines lists a staggering range of around 125 different subcategories of beer styles. I genuinely believe there exists a beer for any palate, and time-honored classic beer styles deserve a comeback.    I once enjoyed a pint of a magnificent, elegant English Dark Mild Ale in a London pub and noticed a 21-year-old bloke sitting near me choking down a sugary alco-pop. When I asked why he had never tried a traditional English cask ale, he replied, "Those are boring drinks for old men." Even though I was a bit miffed, I bought him a half pint of the mild, which he sipped begrudgingly. When I returned from a trip to the toilet, I was shocked to see him with a full pint of the mild. He quickly admitted, "You know, this is not half bad." It was a proud day for me.    Yes, craft beer is in a slump, but it doesn't have to be this way. Brewers, pub owners, beer lovers and beer influencers must step up to help educate consumers and potential consumers on the history, beauty, variety and merits of the extraordinary beverage that is beer. Young people won't give a rat's ass about beer if they don't know anything about it. Introduce friends, especially younger drinkers, to the deliciousness of craft beer. Find a gateway style for beer newbies and encourage them to expand their palates by checking out local brewery taprooms, pubs and beer festivals. Let's all do our part to keep our craft breweries afloat.    Beer festivals offer an opportunity to taste a variety of styles.